Carrying on my theme of making (and blogging) basics for my wardrobe I present to you the ultimate in wardrobe staples – Dark Trousers!
I have made the Sasha Trousers before but in a very stretchy very plasticy feeling fabric, they fit nicely and look ok but tbh I don’t wear them because they just feel odd, and I don’t normally worry about any form of polyester content in my fabric. For this pair, I used a thick Chino like fabric that was in my stash and tbh I am not actually sure where it came from. I also can’t actually work out what colour it is, I thought that it was black and the back of the fabric certainly is black but in bright sunlight, the front of the fabric looks blue. Oh well, blue-black it is…
I cut the size XX the same as last time but I added some extra width to the seam allowance in case the stiffness of the fabric meant I needed to let the trousers out more, but with 5/8″ they already had quite a bit of wiggle room.
I made the trousers up with welt pockets in the back and slash pockets in the front, lining the pockets with the same bright turquoise fabric that I was cutting a Rachel Shirt out of. The only problem I had with the welt pockets, other than the length of time they take to make, was that my darts extended beyond the bottom of the welt pocket and look a tad odd as well as adding some bulk to the stitching.
I won’t claim that these trousers are the best fitting trousers in the world but they are much better than pretty much every pair of RTW trousers that I have ever tried on. Looking back at these photos I am wondering if I need to let the hips out a little more. I will admit when I first wore the trousers I classified them as not trousers for long car journeys as they are a bit tight and this is accentuated when sat down because they are high waisted. But having worn them a few times since then they have stretched out a little and I can now sit down for a while without having to undo the waistband (that doesn’t mean I don’t though!)
In these side-on photos, you can see the bottom of that pesky dart below the welt pocket, but I’ll just keep telling myself that it looks like a buttonhole and forget about it. But more importantly, you can see the reason that I love making my own trousers, that sway back! The only adjustment that I had to do (other than letting the side seams out 1/4″) was to take a wedge out of the centre back. I think I took about 1″ out on the seam fading to nothing 2″ below the welt pockets.
My hips are most definitely the widest part of me, and are quite low down and pointy if these photos are anything to go by… so I may look at letting these out at that point just a little to reduce those drag lines across my crotch but I think that as these get worn and stretched into shape that tightness will be reduced. After wearing these for a couple of days I managed to wear them with leggings underneath for a walk so they are loosening up which is good.
As well as making the welt pockets on the back of these trousers I also upped the finishing game with bias binding on the bottom of the waistband (but skipped the french seams on the pockets) and upping the finishing game, even more, it is homemade bias binding. I have actually made my own bias binding about 4/5 times lately, and I still have to look up how to do it every time!
Now to cut out my third pair… Have you made trousers? If so what is your favourite pattern?